Aloha Surf Guide: A Beginner's Guide for the Vacationing Surfer

People can order the book from me—just by calling me at 858-274-1843 and I can send a copy.

This is a thorough guide for anyone who wants to learn to surf or just learn more about surfing. Aloha Surf Guide introduces the reader to the sport with a concise chapter on surf history. It takes the reader through a step-wise progression from the equipment they will need for surfing, to how to carry and stand on a surfboard, to the culminating act of standing up and riding waves. But that's not all--Aloha Surf Guide is chocked full of useful information to help you feel more comfortable and safer in the water. It explains important local water movements like rip tides, longshore currents, undertow and how to deal with them. There is detailed information on hazards that may exist in the ocean and how to avoid them. It even describes the rules of the road that surfers acknowledge while out in the water.

The final chapters of the book include a series of stretching and strengthening exercises that will physically prepare the reader for their next surf trip. These exercises require little equipment and are specifically chosen for those of all fitness levels.

What is surfing all about? Thats easy—FUN! But if you want a more detailed answer, I would tell you that it's one of the oldest continually practiced sports on the planet. That it combines art and athleticism in their purest forms. That it requires adequate water knowledge by the surfer. That it provides a sense of freedom, harmony with nature, timelessness and exhilaration found nowhere else on earth. Possibly its greatest attribute is that it is free to anyone who will take the time to pursue it.

The pages that follow provide you with detailed instruction on how to stand up and ride a surfboard. Unlike the typical “jump up and try to recover” approach, I've found that people are more successful if they learn to surf by “sneaking up to their feet under total control.” I have explained small details that may seem irrelevant, but they will actually help you develop the right habits and correct body memory.

Before you learn to surf, figure out what your most comfortable stance on a surfboard is. When surfing, you'll stand sideways on your board. Your feet will be slightly more than shoulder width apart, with the front foot near the center of your board. That puts your front foot about where your belly button would be when you're lying on your board. Your back foot will be about where your knees would be when lying on your board. Your front foot will point about 45 degrees from the forward direction, and your back foot will point about 75 degrees from the forward direction. You should place your dominant foot forward. “Regular foot (regular stance) is placing your left foot forward, and “goofy foot (goofy stance) Remember to reapply wax every time you go surfing. ding: a crack or tear in your surfboard, usually used in reference to Fiberglass boards. Your board will absorb water through a ding causing added weight, decreased performance and visible blemishes.

When you start surfing you'll use muscles you never knew you had. Your body will get bent in every direction imaginable. Flexibility is therefore your friend. The exercises below will improve fl exibility in your arms, shoulders, back and legs. As a result, you'll be less prone to injuries. I know this is pretty dry stuff, but it's very useful. As you continue with this chapter, be sure to check out the pictures and make sure you're doing the exercises right.

A Few Pointers

Before getting started, there are a few things you need to know. First, it's important to maintain straight posture with a neutral head position while performing these exercises. Second, don't bounce when you're stretching. Instead, hold each stretch for at least fi fteen to thirty seconds before relaxing. Third, use controlled breathing during these exercises. Concentrate on exhaling completely over a three second interval and inhaling slowly over a two second interval.

Finally, let pain be your guide. Don't force these exercises past the point where you feel mild tension in the muscles being stretched. If you experience any sharp pain, especially in your shoulders or back, stop and see your doctor about it.